Chapter 14: Stretching the Limits

27-Aug (Mon):

Kargil

Kargil

Kargil - Zanskar Valley – Kargil

7.15 AM

9.15 PM

205 KMS

Day dawned bright and sunny but a bit humid, with a tinge of haze. Hardly had opportunity to appreciate Kargil skyline in that dark. As we had reached late in the night, All we had focused was reaching Kargil and nothing else was on top of our minds.

We had yet to refuel the car. The fuel station was across the bridge and a good 3 kms away. We reckoned that we would find the pump open for business as the time was about 7 AM. So, off we went and thankfully, the pump was indeed open and surprisingly, a bit busy too.

Panaromic View of KARGIL

Panaromic View of KARGIL

Army School at Kargil

Zanskar Valley is one of the least visited spots in Ladakh (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zanskar) and this is mainly due to the distance and fact that roads here are dirt tracks for the most part. Most people like to take this excursion at the end of their trip while returning from Ladakh via Srinagar. However, it was the opposite for us. It was an enroute deviation for us for a 2 day trip. Started off the day after a quick tea at our lodge. Drove out of the town towards Leh to fill the tank and our Jerry can to suffice for a 250 + 250 kms drive.

From Kargil to Panikhar the roads are metalled and barring few freshly laid stretches, it’s full of potholes but easy to negotiate. The work of tarmac on the unmetalled parts is in progress in its own speed. First major town you came across after leaving Kargil was Sankoo, 42kms from Kargil. Had a very oily breakfast and none of enjoyed the breakfast. Had to spill a lot of food as none of us were in a condition to digest the volume of oil served with food. rOTi and omelets were (fried instead of roasted) dipped in oil!

Some of the simplest test for the day

Some of the simplest test for the day

The next major stop was Rangdum, 88kms from here. Roads from Sankoo started improving as we entered Panikhar and you are greeted with lush green valley and snow covered mountains peaks and glaciers dotting the horizon. Panikhar is one of the most scenic places in Suru Valley and a photography stop here is highly recommended. Indeed in our enthusiasm to enjoy photography we were not covering the distance at the speed that we should have been covering. We also came across some crater crossings where we got down helping Bandi negotiate the pot holes with a lesser load of 160 kgs. At the back of the mind even though we knew we were delaying, we had stretched our speed to the limits possible. As we reached viewpoint for NUN Glacier, we came across a large mass of stone gravel on road for a distance of around 200 mts. It was pretty rugged stretch and we decided to do with only driver on wheels. However, the biggest challenge for the day had just arrived.  This was a grade 4 stone crossing. We felt this was the end of the road for us !

A newly blasted rock along the roadside had blocked around a 50 mts of stretch at an height of 3 – 4 ft. The view was pretty scary. One would (including me) would have driven back, otherwise for being a convoy. Avinash had already crossed the stretch on his Scorp and we stopped way back.  Got out to estimate the stretch including the tough patches that may hit the underbelly of the car. After a crisp discussion we decided that our car (having low ground clearance) would not cross particularly one stretch of a large stone. Else it could make through the gravel. Avinash with all enthusiasm got onto the wheels and steered through the stretch. The video speaks for itself.

<VIDEO LINK>

Stone Crossing

A moment of triumph

We breathed a sigh of relief. My love to car had multiplied only cause it had proved critics wrong. By this time we had crossed a point of return for Avinash in his last year’s trip. We were indeed happy that we crossed that point, also came ahead and crossed one of the toughest crossings for us till now on this trip. As we were slowing down Avinash, we decided that we will break our journey at Rangdum and Avinash would continue till Padum. We would catch up with him tomorrow morning at PENZI LA or at DARANG DURANG Glacier.

He sped away and we drove at our own pace. When we reached a point of 101 KMS milestone as per HVK Travelogue, had a magnificient view of KUN Glacier. This was also the point that sang iti shrI for our trip on this route. We were following an Army gypsy that was half submerged when it crossed the water crossing in front of us.

We needed a depth guide for us to guage the depth once again as we also had to do stream crossing, nullah-crossing, (may be also termed as a burial ground, if there is cliff right next to you. Thank God, it was not the case here) and take on a two/three-feet drop as well! All of this and no road, just dirt, gravel and stones before we got on to the road once again!

We thought for sometime to decide on our next course of action. We had a couple of options in front of us

·         Drive through risking damage to the car

·         Stay put that night there and wait for Avinash to join us next morning

·         Return back to Kargil ?

A moment of thought

Deep beyond this point (App 140 Kms) is Darang Durang Glacier

Water Trap AKA Water Crossing .. that was the end of road for us

However, for me, it was time to draw the line between bravery and stupidity and I did the same. Proposed option 2. A Samaritan drove towards us from the opposite side who had brought a message from Avinash. There were many more such tough crossings and the one in front of us was not the end of adventure for the day for us. Decided to drive back.

Bandi after seeing how Avinash crossed the previous stone crossing wanted to drive the stone stretch on our way back. He indeed crossed the stretch with good skill. Indeed the terrain had changed much due to more stone blasting in the meantime. We had a customary Achievement photo shoot. The Sun was going down faster than what we wished. We had taken 6+hrs to reach this place and we had to return quicker to avoid driving in the night.

As we drove, the moonlit night started showing not only the stars, but also the first view of the melting ice from some of the ice capped mountains. These were covered with clouds earlier during the day; it seemed that a master craftsman had done the ice-carvings.

It was one of the scariest of the drives as for long stretches we did not come across any vehicles, and young men sitting in groups in dark in road bends. We just ignored everything and drove into the hotel we stayed the previous night.

KUN Glacier

A simple water crossing

Lonely Stupa at Prakchik

Stone Blasting in progress 

It was a day of mixed feelings. Some mission accomplished.. and some still left over for our next trip.