Saturday, October 06, 2012

Chapter 12: GULMARG Calling



25-Aug (Sat)
Srinagar
Gulmarg
Srinagar – Gulmarg – Srinagar
6.25 AM
6 PM
110 KMS
It was a day trip to Gulmarg. Even though we had plans of moving into Pahalgam, and had checked out all our luggage, the Almighty had a different plan for us. Drive to and back from Gulmarg was an uneventful one.

After we reached Gulmarg, decided to spend half day in the pony ride till the Glacier on top and use the next half of the day to drive to Pahalgam. Had to negotiate cut throat to get a discount of Rs 100. We landed up spending Rs 1100 per pony. Pony ride for 4 hrs and at this gradient was a new experience to all of us. The other option for us was to take a gonDOla ride till stage 2 and then walk till glacier. We decided on the pony as it would be a complete trip of all places at Gulmarg. The other humanitarian view was that it would help the shepherds to make their daily living as this area is open only for 6 months for ponies.

4 Ponies were led by 2 shepherds with whom we had a chat all way through. It was during this chat , I realized that there is a day in the calendar dedicated to SNOW ! (http://world-snow-day.com/en/wsd/Event_Locator/India/Gulmarg/World_snow_Day). We had kept our cameras ready to capture the breathtaking beauty of Gulmarg all through the Pony ride. As you keep on climbing the beauty of Gulmarg unfurled every moment, which one would surely like to cherish later on.

Gulmarg:  View of Glacier in the Background, Golf course next to the road



Gulmarg:  SKIING School



The beauty of Gulmarg changes every hour. On a bright day, you will be enchanted with it's changing beauty every hour. We were mesmerized by the sheer changing beauty of the place the few hours we spent there. Few pictures shared at the end is only an indicator. However, Gulmarg (Meadow of Flowers) is equally popular in winter as it is the SKIING capital of the country. Many foreign tourist flock this place during winter. Google for GULMARG IN WINTER and the view of the pictures online are mind-blowing. This is certainly not going to be my last trip to Gulmarg. The place is so beautiful one must spend at least day here just watching the changing beauty of Gulmarg!

Originally called ‘Gaurimarg’ by shepherds, its present name was given in the 16th century by Sultan Yusuf Shah, who was inspired by the sight of its grassy slopes emblazoned with wild flowers. Gulmarg was a favourite haunt of Emperor Jahangir who once collected 21 different varieties of flowers from here. Today Gulmarg is not merely a mountain resort of exceptional beauty- it also has the highest green golf course in the world, at an altitude of 2,650 m, and is the country’s premier ski resort in the winter.

Shiva Temple: The Shiva temple was actually the royal temple of Dogra kings of Jammu and Kashmir. Also known as “Rani Temple” or “Maharani Temple”, this is situated on a small hillock in the centre of Gulmarg. The unique thing about this royal temple is the fact that it can be seen from all the corners of Gulmarg. The Maharani temple also known as Mohineshwar Shivalalaya was built by Mohini Bai Sisodhia, the wife of the erstwhile ruler of Kashmir Maharaja Hari Singh (the last king of Kashmir) in 1915. Mohini Bai Sisodhia was the daughter of Maharaja Mohandev of Dharampur. When the last Dogra king was spending his time in Gulmarg in his royal palace, a couple of kilometers from the temple, his queen used to come here to worship Lord Shiva. Infact, she stayed here for months and worshiped Lord Shiva in this temple. The temple remains open every day from 6am to 9pm. Jai jai shiv Shankar song was shot at this temple.

Indian Institute of Skiing & Mountaineering, was the next landmark on our way to Khilanmarg. Its shares its campus right in the centre of a 18 hole golf course. The next was the HAWS (High Altitude Warfare School).

Climb up from here till Glacier was pretty treacherous on our thighs and calf muscles. We spent good time in photography on top of the glacier. We could see the Pakistan Occupied Kashmir peaks from the top of the glacier. Ride down till the base camp was a bumpy ride personified. At some places we were at a gradient of 35 – 40 Degrees where you repeatedly remember your favourite God.

As we came down we had to stretch for a while to come out of cramps. As we drove back, we were caught up in heavy rains. Stopped at a Kashmiri Cloth Shop (who also runs his business at Brigade Road, Bangalore). Did some shopping before we stopped for our lunch at 5.00 PM! Avinash updated us that as he is pretty much early to Pahalgam, he would catch up with us at Srinagar. We decided to re route ourselves to Srinagar.

As we met Avinash at our Hotel, it was time for him to share his experiences and adventure of driving via Kishtwar. Search on YouTube for driving videos and you can have a firsthand description. His experience was no different from the video that you may come across. My recommendations

from Wanderers: 

From HVK

Rested for the night  as we had to prepare for a longer drive tomorrow.


Some more pictures from the day :

Gulmarg:  Entry to Khillanmarg




Gulmarg:  Water crossing at Avalanche Zone


Gulmarg:  Under the Glacier Arch




Gulmarg:  View of Gulmarg base camp from Glacier

Gulmarg:  one of the 45 Deg Gradient paths

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